Any well dressed, fashionable man living in Regency England prided himself on having a perfectly tied cravat, or necktie. Some were so fussy about their cravats that they went through a dozen starched neckcloths until they got exactly the look they desired. Some gentlemen changed the knots for the occasion, others prided themselves on having one particular signature look. The kind of knots a man used often said much about him–the more difficult knots would tell people that this man was very fastidious, and prided himself on his appearance.
Here is a picture I found on Wikimedia Commons showing the most popular knots for a Regency gentleman’s cravat. Instructions for tying cravats can be found at Nekclothitania.
Each type of knot had a name; for example, the Mathematical, the Waterfall, the Oriental, etc. I have read that the Waterfall, also called the Mail Coach, consisted of taking a very starched tie, wrapping it around the neck and lowering the chin so the creases fell into a uniform pattern, and tucking the ends into the waistcoat.
Supposedly Beau Brommell, (pictured below) accredited with making cravat knots an art form, preferred this type of type because it catered to his fussiness–apparently this style was so difficult to achieve that he went through dozens of ties until he got exactly the right look. Talk about a dandy, right?
Of course, having a skilled valet who specialized in knots would be a great commodity. After achieving the perfect knot, the trick was not to move one’s head enough to muss the creation.
Some knots require the waistcoat (which looks like a vest) to be off, while others clearly must be left outside the waistcoat in order to achieve the right look. It also depended on the waistcoat. Some had high, attached collars which would pretty much require the cravat be tied first and tucked inside.
Most cravats were white, but some called for colors, and some informal gentleman’s clubs also called for a certain color or cravat to distinguish them as members.
For those of you looking for something more modern, there is a great tutorial on how to tie a Windsor Knot on You Tube here
For once, I’m glad as a woman, I will probably never have to tie something this complicated 🙂
I am always confused by “cravat” vs. “neckcloth” – but I guess they must be the same. I love the idea of all these different knots they would have. I guess it’s the way with kids today with wearing their hats or other clothing certain ways to show certain things. Great post!